Good Places to Buy Muzzleloader Rifle and Pistol Kits

I’m relatively new to building muzzleloaders, but I have learned quickly that there is a wide range of skills required to successfully build a traditional muzzleloader that is period correct. If you have machinist skills and tools then you have a big advantage when learning how to build a kit.

There are a lot of people that would love to build a muzzleloader, but are afraid to take on a project that they are not skilled enough to finish. I would like to help these folks take the leap into this world by showing them that there are kits available for every skill set.

Here is how I would rate the skill level required to build a muzzleloader kit on a scale of 1-5.

1 – The gun is fully assembled but is in the white. This means that the wood and metal needs to be sanded or filed and then stained or blued or browned. Need to be able to disassemble and reassemble and you get to select the color and look that the finished product has. Cost for this option is higher because your paying for a craftsman to build the rifle. Probably 5-10 hours to finish the kit.

2 – All the parts for the kit are preselected for you and are very close to fitting together with minimal wood removal. The inletting is 99% completed, likely with a CNC machine so that the parts fit very close. I would rate the Jim Kibler kits into this group. Probably about 25-30 hours to assemble and finish the wood and metal to have a completed project.

3– Stock not made on CNC machine so more work to fit parts. Stock is about 95% completed. Barrel can have some of the machinist work done, like dove tail cuts. Holes can be drilled and tapped, Tang and breach plug is connected to the barrel. Estimate 50-100 hours to complete.

4 – The kit is selected with parts that reproduce a period correct gun. The stock is shaped and inlet to 90% complete. The barrel will need dovetails cut in for the sights and lugs. There is about 1/8” of extra wood that will need to be shaped on the stock to fit the barrel and all hardware to fit. Breach plug needs to be installed to barrel. Holes will need to be drilled and tapped. Estimate 200-300 hours to build.

5 – You begin with a blank chunk of wood, and select the barrel, lock, trigger, and all hardware yourself to match a period correct rifle that you are trying to duplicate. This is the ultimate in succeeding as a custom muzzleloader builder. Carving and engraving are often seen at this level. Estimate likely more than 300 hours to build.

The estimated time to complete is based on your skill set and the tools you have to work with. Some may build a level 5 rifle in much less time because they are very experienced.

Track of the Wolf offers kits that cover a wide range of skill sets. They offer services where they will do some of the harder assembly work for you to make the kit easier.

Please provide where you prefer to buy your kits and rate the skill level required to assemble them (1-5). I’ll share this information with everyone.


Rifle and Pistol Kit Suppliers

Abe’s General Store
Skill Level: 3
Products: Traditions kits

Deer Creek Products
Skill Level: 3
Products: CVA Parts, Traditions Kits, Pedersoli Rifles and Kits

Dixon’s Muzzleloading Shop Inc.
Skill Level: 3-4
Products: Muzzleloader Parts

Dixie Gun Works
Skill Level: 3-4
Products: Gunsmithing-Building, Traditions, Dixie, Lyman, Pedersoli Kits

Hinterland Outfitters
Skill Level: 3
Products: Traditions Rifle Kits

Jedediah Starr Trading Company
Skill Level: 3-4
Products: Gun Kits, Gunsmith Services

Jim Chambers Flintlocks
Skill Level: 3-4
Products: Rifles, Locks, Pistols and Parts

Jim Kibler Flintlocks
Skill Level: 1-2
Products: Flintlock CNC Rifle Kits – Colonial and Southern Mountain, CNC Flintlock

Kashtuk Bowcraft Gunworks
Skill Level:
Products: Guns and Pistols, Northwest Trade Gun, Tennessee Long Rifle, Virginia-Lancaster Longrifle, Leman Trade Gun

Log Cabin Shop
Skill Level:
Products: Guns and Gun Parts, Lyman and Traditions Muzzleloaders

Main Street Muzzleloaders
Skill Level:
Products: Traditional Muzzleloader Rifles and Pistols

Muzzleloading and More
Skill Level:
Products: Rifles, Pistols

October Country
Skill Level:
Products: Rifle and Pistol Kits

Taylor’s & Company
Skill Level:
Products: Black Powder Rifles

Traveler’s Antiques and Trading Co.
Skill Level:
Products: Uberti Revolvers, Pedersoli Rifles

Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading
Skill Level:
Products: Rifle and Smoothbore Kits

The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium
Skill Level:
Products: Custom and Production Guns

The Possible Shop
Skill Level:
Products: Cap & Ball Pistols, Muzzleloaders and Kits

The Hawken Shop
Skill Level:
Products: Hawken Rifle Kits, Locks, Breeches, Tangs.

The Rifle Shoppe
Skill Level:
Products: Rifles and Pistols

Track of the Wolf
Skill Level: 3-4
Products: Guns, Gun and Pistol Kits, Gun Parts, Gunsmithing

Traditions Firearms
Skill Level:
Products: Muzzleloaders, Pistols, and Kits

Muzzleloader Barrels

Recently we did a survey of your favorite muzzleloader barrel manufacturers, and here is the results:

1. Green Mountain – 49

2. Rice – 41

3. Colerain – 15

4. Getz – 12

5. Ed Rayl – 6

6. Douglas – 5

7. Bill Large – 4

8. Long Hammock – 3

9. Mark DeHaas – 3

10. Robert Hoyt – 3

11. Charlie Burton at FCI Barrels – 2

12. Orion – 2

13. Moody – 2

14. Bauska – 1

15. Traditions – 1

16. Green River – 1

17. Sharon – 1

18. Zimmerman – 1

19. Jukar – 1

20. Buckeye – 1

21. Numerich – 1

22. H&H – 1

23. Whitacre – 1

24. Montana Rifle Barrel – 1

Thank you to everyone for participating and sharing your opinions. One thing I heard repeatedly was that most of these barrels shot better than they did. That is definitely true for me.

#1 CHOICE

Availability and customer service are also very important and go into the decision as to where to buy. I find it interesting when a custom gun maker chooses to work exclusively with one barrel manufacturer. It’s a good endorsement for that manufacturer.

One thing I learned by asking the question is there is not a shortage of high quality barrels manufacturers on the market.

#2 CHOICE

Many of the barrel manufacturers were custom makers and some of them are no longer making barrels. It’s nice to have so many options in the market and to know that there are a lot of high quality barrels.

#3 CHOICE

I have copied some quotes from experienced builders and their thoughts on barrel manufacturers. Thanks to everyone that provided their feedback!

Jeff Sluder “At the risk of giving a “non answer answer” I think a lot of that depends on how you define value. With the exception of Buckeye I’ve built rifles using barrels from all of the 5 mentioned. They all shoot good. They all need a little effort from the shooter to determine the patch/ball/powder charge the particular barrel likes the best. I don’t think there is a bad one in the bunch. A lot of it comes down to what barrel profile you want, which one makes a profile that matches it close enough and what is available at the time you need the barrel. Back when I could see, I tied a national record with a Getz barrel, my current target rifle has a Green Mountain barrel and the 2 rifles I built last winter had Colerain barrels. All are shooters. Bottom line I don’t think there would be a mistake with using any of them.”

Frank Starr “I have used Douglas, Numerich, Green River, Green Mountain, H&H, Hoyt, Whitacre, Getz, Colerain, Rice, and Long. Have had really good ones and some not so. I used to use Getz all the time and had excellent results with them and some of them are still my best shooters. But Getz has become slow since the change. Bobby Hoyt also does really well with specialty twists and sizes. Never really saw what people raved about H&H barrels and I lived really close to their shop. I tried them several times on rifles for friends who wanted them but I was never impressed. I have had a lot of Douglas barrels that out shot many of the higher priced “Custom” ones. Green River barrels were great when you could get them. Now days I mainly use Colerain and Rice and they both do the job very well. Been building since early 70’s, Just my two cents worth!!”

Rich Pierce “Sharon, GRRW, Getz, Rice, Hoyt, Rayl, Charlie Burton, Bill Large. I’ve had a lot of custom profile barrels made by various makers. If I want something off the shelf I’ll go with Rice first because their finish inside and out is great and they are available. For off the shelf smoothbore barrels it’s Colerain because they have a lot of profiles. Whenever I can get a Getz I do because Don was a friend and John is a friend and the barrels are great. If I can find a GRRW that would work for a build I will get it. They have a slight choke and narrow lands and load beautifully. Oh now I remember Green Mountain as well. Great barrels too. We are lucky to have more great barrels available now than ever before. I never used a Douglas because I prefer tapered or swamped barrels for all my builds and most of theirs were straight.”

J Albert Miles“I have rifles with Douglas,Large,DeHass,Green Mtn. Colerain , and I’m sure they are more accurate than I am ! , I have 3 N.Lewis rifles , and I’m very positive they are very accurate from what I’ve read about him.”

Wayne McKay“Rice for longrifles. Whitacre for Civil War stuff, and Colerain for anything else. I should also add Ed Rayl. He makes a fine barrel.”

Tip for Casting Round Lead Balls

YouTube offers some videos on the process of melting down the lead and pouring into the molds. It definitely looks like a fun addition to my Muzzleloading hobby, especially if it can improve the accuracy of my shooting.

I haven’t taken the leap into casting my own round balls yet, but I’m considering it. This week I had a discussion with a fellow club member on the subject and he shared a good recommendations.

So this was the recommendation: when you have a full pot of melted lead and are pouring the molds, at some point you will want to add more lead to the pot. He recommended not adding any more lead until the batch of balls are completed. All the balls are weighted to see if there were any light ones with an air bubble and then recast those or use them for the fowling shot. All the rest are within 1 grain of each other.

If on the other hand you add more lead to the pot while casting a batch of balls, he found that the weight of the balls could vary by 3 or 4 grains. The reason for this is that the lead is coming from various sources and may not be the same purity. All the lead that he uses is recycled from various sources and there must be either impurities or other metals mixed with the lead causing the differences in weight.

I would assume that if you took a single piece of lead and cut it into small chunks, you could probably add those smaller pieces to the melting pot without this problem. But if the lead is from different sources it would be best not to add more lead to the pot during a batch pour.

If you have seen similar results I would love to hear from you. Happy casting!